The Pulaar are a diverse group that speaks a variety of dialects. Their homeland ranges northward from southern Senegal and touches the Atlantic coastline in the St Louis, Senegal, area. They are primarily nomadic, but many are farmers. The urbanized Pulaar are merchants and skilled workers.
My day of research among the Pulaar was focused on the nomadic Fulba-Jeeri in northern Senegal. Driving from Louga toward Dara, I noticed the village of Moukh Moukh with its tall water tower. The well and tower were provided by a Japanese government aid program. It supplies water not only to the villagers, but also to the nomadic Pulaar in the area.
I noticed a lot of activity around the tower as shepherds with their herds of goats, sheep and cattle gathered. Women with donkey-drawn carts moved along the road with containers of water from the tower.
As I stopped to take pictures, I observed a migration of other shepherds and herds coming toward Moukh Moukh. It became evident that this was the village where I could make contact with the Pulaar.
I entered Moukh Moukh and went immediately to the chief’s yard. He received me graciously and invited me to move about the village and take pictures. Ramadan had just concluded, and preparations were under way for a big celebration. Everyone was dressed for the occasion, and the Pulaar were streaming in to enjoy the festivities.
Walking over to the water tap, I had opportunity to interact with the men as they watered their herds and filled their containers for use in their camps. Pulaar men are confident and open to visitors. They are proud of their attire and animals and anxious to pose for photos.
Leaving the village, I stopped to eat my lunch under a shade tree. Soon hundreds of cattle began moving by on their way to a grazing area.
Each herd of 50 to 100 cattle had at least two shepherds walking and one on horseback. The shepherds were men who were able to provide security for the cattle with their brand. The shepherds stopped to visit and asked for water. They were eager to visit and be photographed.
Returning to St. Louis, I reflected on my visit among the Pulaar. A few things stood out: (1) They are not a closed society, enjoying celebrating and drinking tea with friends; (2) with a water source that draws nomadic Pulaar, Moukh Moukh is a great place for regular, ongoing contact with both men and women; (3) Opening a tea shop in the village would be a friendly setting in which to share the gospel.